Unveiling Venissa's Dorona Delight: A Toast to Venice's Wine Revival
My recent visit to Italy took me to the island of Mazzorbo, nestled within the enchanting Venetian lagoon. An island with a tale of resilience, discovery, and a commitment to preserving Venice's rich wine legacy. The story begins when Gianluca Bisol stumbled upon a nearly forgotten vineyard on Torcello, a nearby neighbouring Island. The owner completely unaware that they had one of the only few remaining grapes that survived from the devastating floods of 1966 marking it as a living relic. What emerged from this encounter was Venissa, a wine as unique as the native Dorona di Venezia grapes it is crafted from – a mere hectare producing a scant 3,500 bottles annually.
What excited me most about Venissa is Gianluca's innovative methods of viticulture in order to preserve this variety. Firstly from planting vines strategically far apart, allowing the roots to grow sideways, which allows them to avoid the saltwater and by digging wells, hundreds of feet deep to reach freshwater beneath the island, laying the foundation for Venissa's revival. A decade later, Matteo Bisol, Gianluca's son, took the helm, transforming Venissa into a refined establishment with a Michelin-starred restaurant and accommodation. However, their commitment extends beyond luxury; it's about preserving Venice's history in every hand-blown glass bottle.
While the Dorona grape experiences a renaissance at Venissa, Laguna nel Bicchiere blends it with other varieties. Yet, Venissa remains a purist, crafting its wine solely from 100% Dorona grapes. This golden nectar has gained renown for its full-bodied, dry profile with a unique hint of saltiness – a perfect companion to local delights served in Venissa's restaurant.
The quest for Dorona's revival is a collaborative effort with the Venice City Government and Regional Department for Agriculture, led by the Bisol family, renowned for their Proseccos in the Valdobbiadene area. After a decade-long search, descendants of ancient Dorona vines were found, and a two-hectare vineyard on Mazzorbo began to flourish.
Visiting Venissa unveils not only a vineyard, but a narrative etched in history. The Michelin-starred restaurant offers a taste of Venetian flavours, with ingredients sourced from adjacent gardens and lagoon seafood. Walking the kitchen garden situated straight alongside vines, you can see the symbiosis of the project. The Venissa wine, with its velvety texture and vibrant gold hue, reflects the unique terroir of the lagoon, where salt acts as a natural pesticide.
Matteo Bisol, the current winemaker and manager, shares insights into Venissa's meticulous process, from fermentation to aging. The handcrafted bottles, designed by Murano's Carlo Moretti, adorned with gold leaf labels from the Battiloro family, symbolize Venetian craftsmanship and heritage. The annual release of a new label further emphasizes Venissa's commitment to artistry.
Beyond being a wine, Venissa is a tribute to Venetian culture and heritage, epitomized by its name inspired by poet Andrea Zanzotto. The journey from a forgotten grape to a symbol of status is a testament to the Bisol family's dedication and the resilience of Dorona. As you savour Venissa, each sip becomes a connection to Venice's past, revived one bottle at a time.
My journey to Venissa was one of joy and exploration, uncovering such a rich and history. The future Dorana is truly golden!
I visited the Venissa Vineyard, Wine Resort and Michelin starred restaurant easily accessed on the island of Mazzorbo by ferry from Venice. You can also access Torcello to view the original vineyard, five minutes by ferry.
